Disclaimer: I once worked in materials science for Johnson & Johnson, Neutrogena's previous parent company, but I don't have any current financial affiliations, so if I'm a shill, then I'm not shilling for a check.
Background
Neutrogena isn't an AB brand, but its classic Ultra-Sheer Dry Touch sunscreen line has an AB exclusive that is manufactured in South Korea and exported to the region. Although I'm unsure of the full list of countries that sells this formula, I know that it's sold in varying packaging in India (where I got 80g for the equivalent of about $9), the Philippines, Malaysia, and Singapore. I was told by my Indian friend's mom that Neutrogena is the brand people use when they want very reliable sun protection, sort of like Japan's Anessa and Allie.
The Helioplex XP on the bottle and the original Helioplex refer to ingredient combinations that stabilize the UVA filter avobenzone. But, the ingredients aren't exclusive or proprietary. Helioplex originally was a combination of avobenzone and oxybenzone in a solvent called diethylhexyl 2,6-naphthalate that also has the benefit of "boosting" protection in the UVA I region (this has since been changed because of consumer demand against oxybenzone). Helioplex XP, used outside of the USA, I am less sure about — but, if I had to guess, it probably refers to the Tinosorb M and S helping out the avobenzone in some polymer.
I think influencers and online spaces are really uninformed when they attack avobenzone for being dated or unreliable. There are valid criticisms that it can sting your eyes or stain your clothes. But have you ever wondered why brands like L'Oreal's La-Roche Posay, with near-limitless research funds and a history of innovation, still incorporate avobenzone in practically all their formulas despite having access to Tinosorb S and Mexoryl 400? Avobenzone is, in terms of protection offered by weight, the most efficient filter at covering the entire UVA spectrum. Uvinul A Plus looks like a jealous silver medalist compared to avobenzone, which not only absorbs UVA more readily at every UVA wavelength, but also covers more of the UVA spectrum. In terms of UVA protection, zinc oxide has the comparative efficiency of a geriatric stoner on Xanax, even if you play with the particle size and coating.
(As an aside, if an American broad-spectrum sunscreen contains avobenzone, that avobenzone is already stabilized. The testing protocol includes blasting the product with high-dose UV multiple times before measuring the absorbance curve. I think this is also true of Australia and the EU, but I'm not fully certain).
High UVA protection is achievable even with the legal cap of 3% avobenzone in American sunscreens. Neutrogena's Hydro Boost SPF 50 moisturizer has a pretty solid UVA protection factor (UVA-PF) of 18, and the now-discontinued Healthy Defense SPF 50 had a UVA-PF of 24. So, I was pretty excited to see a region-specific product that enhanced an old yet reliable technology with newer ingredients.
Review
- Protection: SPF 50+/PA++++
- UV Filters: Homosalate, octocrylene, avobenzone, octisalate, Tinosorb M, Univul T, and Tinosorb S. There's also a small amount of nano titanium dioxide that offers some degree of protection, but it's likely used in the product as an opacifier and texture-enhancer.
- Price: The equivalent of about 10 USD for 80g in India, though I'm sure online vendors will have a slight markup. There's also a 30g size available. I'm unsure of the cost in other countries.
- Texture: Lighter than a lotion but not quite a liquid, it’s a thicker fluid that dispenses from a large needle-nosed spout. I was impressed at how easily this sunscreen spreads and sets into a natural-matte, but not fully matte nor necessarily "dry-touch," finish. If you've tried the North American equivalent, this doesn't dry into a powder. In fact, it's lightly hydrating. If you reapply multiple times and excessively rub your skin, you might see some pilling.
- White-cast: Though there are some opaque particles like Tinosorb M, silica, and nano titanium dioxide, it sheers out even on darker South Asian skin when it dries after application. So much so that I had someone tell me they didn't like this new formula because they liked the white cast with the previous version. Still, it's inevitable that darker skin colors might see some white cast.
- Alcohol: It's alcohol-free. However, there's a fair amount of silica, an oil-absorbing agent, so some people might still find this drying. But I haven't had any issues with pilling or stickiness after applying this over my morning routine.
- Water-resistance: I think this was designed very well for its target regions in Asia, which generally have hot and humid summers coupled with ACs on blast. It holds up in heat, water, and humidity and claims 80 minute water-resistance. There is an ingredient called "Acrylates/Dimethicone Copolymer" that lends a tenacious and hydrophobic finish. If you sweat excessively, you might see some white streaks.
- I haven't had any issues with burning or noticeable color change (MAC NC20 and Fitzgerald II skin type) during 4+ hours-long, 8+ average UV index activities in limited shade. I reapplied less frequently than I should have.
- So yeah, it's pretty tenacious even though I don't think this has the tenacity of stuff like Kanebo Allie's "Super Friction-Guard," Shiseido's/Anessa's "SynchroShield/Auto Booster" (they're the same thing), or L'Oreal's "Netlock" (if you like Anessa's staying power but prefer being a Francophile over being a weaboo, look for "C12-22 ALKYL ACRYLATE/HYDROXYETHYLACRYLATE COPOLYMER" in products under the L'Oreal portfolio like La Roche-Posay, Garnier, etc. because that shit doesn't come off). Then again, those are the state-of-the-art technologies if you really just want to half-assedly slap on sunscreen and forget about it. Which you shouldn't do, but let's be real, we've all been there.
- Makeup: I can't personally attest to the claim that this wears well under makeup, but many online reviews say it wears fine. There's a degree of oil-controlling capabilities because of some absorbent ingredients. I can't imagine that this holds oil at bay better than a mattifying primer or something like the Biore UV Perfect Milk or Anessa Skincare UV Milk.
- Fragrance: For better or worse, this smells exactly like the Ultra-Sheer Dry Touch formulas in North America. I personally enjoy it because it reminds me of summers and swimming pools. The scent itself is on the lighter side and doesn't linger for too long, but it certainly isn't fleeting.
- Eye-sting: Sun products don't sting my eyes unless I literally apply it to my eyeballs, so my experience isn't very generalizable. This does contain similar ingredients to the original North American Ultra-Sheer Dry Touch range, which many people do claim causes eye-stinging. So if you've had a poor experience with that, I'd take that as a decent precaution that this might not work for you.
- Who is this for? I really think this will suit everyone that isn't on the extreme ends of oily or dry. Oily skin types can wear this as a moisturizer; people with dry skin can wear this on top of a light layer of moisturizer.
- Verdict: I'd totally buy this again if it was close to the same price I got it for. It has all the hallmarks of a drugstore product that I love: extremely boring claims, bland packaging, reliable protection, a reputable history, and affordable price. It isn't packed with novel ingredients nor does it really claim to do anything besides protect from the sun, but it protects very well. My only gripe is that I've only found 30g and 80g sizes and I spend a lot of time outdoors, so I wish it came in a bigger bottle.
Ingredients
Water, Homosalate, Octocrylene, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane [Avobenzone], Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol [Tinosorb M], Ethylhexyl Triazone [Uvinul T], Glycerin, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, Sodium Potassium Aluminum Silicate, Diisopropyl Adipate, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Phenoxyethanol, Triacontanyl PVP, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Silica, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine [Tinosorb S], Tocopheryl Acetate, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters, PEG-75 Stearate, Titanium Dioxide (nano), Dimethicone, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Titanium Dioxide, Ceteth-20, Fragrance, Steareth-20, Acrylates/Dimethicone Copolymer, Disodium EDTA, Jojoba Esters, Sodium Hydroxide.
Routine (for reference)
AM
- Neutrogena Ultra Gentle Foaming Facial Cleanser
- Sekkisei Lotion (toner)
- Olay Super Serum or Eucerin Deep Hydration Serum (depends on skin condition)
- Neutrogena Daily Facial Moisturizer
- SPF
PM
- Neutrogena Ultra Gentle Foaming Facial Cleanser
- Sekkisei Lotion
- Olay Super Serum or Eucerin Deep Hydration Serum
- Olay Pro Advanced Retinol Complex Moisturizer (Costco-exclusive edition, but very similar formula to every other Olay retinol moisturizer)
by 4lokosandlexapro