Looking for a reality check — is this normal? I mean, it’s not *bad* bad… imo it looks okay at a normal distance (pic 3), and as a reformed perfectionist, I usually coach myself not to obsess over details.
However, this is a consistent Thing with my manicures. Obviously this is a top coat issue, it seems like the QDTC is QDing + unevenly pulling the top layer of color polish inwards. The two products I have/use are Essie Gel Setter — which I don’t use much, because when it shrinks, it does so *dramatically*. All my fingers will look like this + a few will be noticeably worse. My other TC is Sally Hansen Insta Dri. This mani is from a brand new bottle, because I thought my previous bottle getting older/thicker was maybe exacerbating things.
I will be picking up another TC next time I buy polish (I’m on a no-buy rn because life is so expensive 🥲). I know product compatibility is probably the #1 culprit + which product works is highly personal. In the meantime, are there any technique changes I can make, or any other factors you can think of that might be impacting my results?
This routine: dehydrate with isopropyl, ORLY Bonder, Morgan Taylor So Check It x2, maybe 3 – 4 minutes downtime, Sally Hansen Insta Dri. Shrinkage developed over 1 hr-ish drying period which made the edges a bit uneven, I cleaned up with a brush and acetone. Mani pictured on day 3.
Would it help to leave more space between my color and the cuticle, so that the top coat generously “wraps” the back edge of the polish? Should I try a thicker or thinner layer of TC? This is close to the thinnest I can manage without dragging the product + my Insta Dri is super watery since it’s brand new, which I’d think would help with thin layers. Interestingly, this time the shrinkage is a little better on my right hand (aka painted with my non-dominant hand) which I assume did not get as precisely-layered an application.
Any insights are very welcome! 🌠
by bunnycrush_
10 Comments
For me this happens when my SH Insta Dri reaches about 40% used so I can’t comment on why it’s happening with a fresh bottle 😩. Someone shared a hack on this sub where they put a layer of base coat between the last layer of colour and their top coat and it helped with shrinkage and polish longevity. Maybe you can try that? I did it a couple times and found it helped with shrinkage (not so much longevity but that might be a me issue).
This usually happens when the product shrinks during curing or if the cuticle area wasn’t perfectly clean/prepped.
Try pushing the cuticles back really well, removing any dead skin, and applying the gel super close (but not touching) to the cuticle. Thinner layers can also help reduce shrinkage.
In my experience, that’s very normal with those topcoats (and QDTCs in general). I used to use Seche Vite, shrinkage was crazy, switched to red bottle insta-dri, better but eventually drove me nuts, switched to Essie gel-setter, once again seemed good initially, but quickly noticed the shrinkage.
The best ones I’ve found are Cuticula Limitless, Glisten and Glow, and Polished for Days. I think I only get shrinkage when it gets down to the end and gets thicker, but it’s minor compared to the other TCs I’ve tried. But in general, yes, you just have to leave more space and overextend the topcoat so it doesn’t pull back the colour.
This is a good thing to try first:
“… leave more space between my color and the cuticle, so that the top coat generously “wraps” the back edge of the polish? ”
If that doesn’t solve it, Cuticula’s “Limitless” QDTC will. Zero shrinkage. Note: the scents are very nice but they sell it unscented too. 🌸
Link: https://shopcuticula.com/products/limitless-scented-quick-dry-top-coat.html
I’m a diehard QDTC user and my favorite is everyone’s worst shrinkage offender: Seche Vite
The way QDTCs work, especially those with toluene, is to melt down into the previous layers of polish and sort of shrink wrap everything down & dry. If the QDTC doesn’t fully cover the polish, it will separate at that point. If there’s too high a ratio of QDTC to polish, like a thick coat of QDTC over only 1 thin coat of color, it’s more likely to shrink.
But most importantly with the stronger (usually have toluene) QDTCs is that they need to be applied over wet polish, not dry. You don’t want to wait between your color coat and your QDTC, you want to use the floating technique to gently float the QDTC over wet or damp polish. The more your QDTC tends to shrink, the wetter the polish needs to be before you apply it.
Edit to add an example: When I’m on my last round of color, I will work 1-2 nails at time. I’ll do the final color coat, wait maybe 30-60 seconds *tops*, then float my QDTC (SV) over, but it’s worth noting that I do really thick color coats, so if my coats were thinner, I’d probably want to wait even less time.
I have had this issue and have learned to prevent it or make it much less noticeable. Simply put a standard clear coat on before the QDTC. Make sure the clear fully covers the entire polished area and wrap the tip. Then apply the QDTC.
I still may see a little shrinkage but nothing like this except rare occasions. It’s also helpful to not brush over the QDTC too much. Get a bead of it on the brush and try not to have the brush touch your nails and instead use the brush to lead the bead of polish over the nail. The more brush strokes you make, the more noticeable the shrinkage will be.
Idk how helpful this is but the best way I’ve found to prevent shrinkage is to just apply QDTC as close to the skin as possible (even letting it flood the cuticle) and then taking a small brush with acetone and cleaning up the edges. Something about the acetone cleanup just “seals” the top coat down, I’m not really sure how or why but that’s what has worked for me. I get really annoyed by large gaps between the polish and my cuticle so this method works for me since it doesn’t require a gap for the top coat. If it helps, my go to top coat is KBShimmer
I stopped using gel setter because it got so stringy after only 6 months and I had the exact same shrinkage issue as you. my Sally Hansen one is doing the same thing though so I just think it’s my nails at this point 😂 that’s why I never wear polish more than a week before changing it!
I rather have to use one without toulene or be very careful and make sure the topcoat goes over the edge of the nail polish coat.
So, since the Essie Gel Setter doesn’t contain toluene, I googled. Google says it’s finicky. That as the bottle ages, it may shrink more. It suggests applying to tacky polish.
The Sally Hansen does contain toluene, so definitely needs to be applied quickly to prevent shrinkage.
Essie Speed Setter doesn’t shrink, and if you’re a bit slow, it’s okay. I find it works best on set polish. I also like Starrily Speed of Light Force Plush top coat. I can even paint my nails a couple hours before bed and not end up with any marks using either of these.
I also recommend buying thinner for both the top coats I mentioned. (Thinner may also help the ones you own.) They will all get stringy eventually. Any thinner with only Butyl Acetate and Ethyl Acetate will work. I like KB Shimmer Restoration Drops. Although for a top coat with Toluene, I’d reccomdation Seche Restore as it contains Toluene as well as Butyl Acetate and Ethyl Acetate. You just don’t want to use it with products that don’t contain Toluene. Hope this helps.