Hi all, after taking a lil hiatus from skincare curation/blogging since I've been doing performance arts and its been popping (!!) I am very excited to come back to talk about the one brand I could go on about: Sulwhasoo. I'm reviewing their high-end line The Ultimate S. Since the first few products launched and that unforgettable swanky event they invited me to in September 2023, it's been two and a half years of using the collection consistently (and inconsistently at some other points), both in a full routine and combined with other skincare. I can say at this point I've had a very good feel of the collection, with the exception of the newly-launched infusion treatment. Please bookmark because this is a WORDY post, it's 2.5 years of info on product information, marketing, real-life testing, impressions and results, so please bear with me as I go full info dump.
This collection hinges on the power of the ginseng berry, an untapped source of ginseng potential. Not many remember, but Sulwhasoo once made a product with ginseng berries in 2016: Invigorating Ginseng Extract Ampoule. It was a daily supplement meant to improve immunity and skin health, but the product unfortunately was discontinued due to poor sales. Even then, their belief in the power of the ginseng berry was unwavering.
Sulwhasoo became one of, if not THE most coveted Korean skincare brand due to their pioneering use of Korean ginseng roots to produce efficacious skincare in 1969 (as ABC Ginseng Cream, when no other ginseng cream was available on the market). As the first to market ginseng in skincare, Sulwhasoo had an incredibly remarkable legacy of studying this very plant to source new compounds equipped with youth-sustaining mechanisms for their collections. In 2023, they debuted The Ultimate S Collection, the latest culmination of their ginseng research. Their new research shifts focus from the plant's root to its fruits, which grows only once in the plant's lifetime every 1000 days and 80% richer in Ginsenoside RE. From these berries, Sulwhasoo has sourced a compound with great beauty potential: syringaresinol. This single ingredient holds the power to regulate autophagy, the recycling of cellular waste, as well as curb the production of 2 types of MMPs (collagen-degrading enzymes) as well as exhibiting antioxidant activity (https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/35818428/) suggesting that syringaresinol has a three-pronged longevity-enhancing effect.
To source syringaresinol from the ginseng berries, Sulwhasoo extracts 600,000g of the berries to obtain only 1g of Ginseng Berry SR, which is two-hundredfold concentrated in syringaresinol compared to the raw plant material. Combined with AmorePacific's proprietary RE.D Flavonoid technology derived from red camellia seeds (reduces aging enzyme PDK1, and found in some Laneige and AP Beauty products) and Ginsenomics (ultra-concentrated ginseng saponins found in Concentrated Ginseng line), the line promises a synergistic action against skin weakening and signs of cutaneous aging.
Now, let's get into the individual products!
The Ultimate S Enriched Cleansing Foam: This cleanser contains a very high amount of oils, about 30% of the formula is oil suspended within their Hydroleo technology. The texture was quite "muddy", with a mild-to-moderate foam and the line's signature floral ginseng berry scent. The scent is less fruity than I thought since the word "berry" was mentioned, but still a clean, comforting and luxurious scent. The cleanser is also recommended to be a 5-minute mask occasionally, and having used it this way I can see why it sort of makes sense as a cleanser in this price range. It will hydrate your skin but in a very balanced manner, no greasiness or heaviness at all. You will run through this one rather fast, as it's not got a lot of foam due to the high oil content. However, the oils definitely deliver on the makeup removal and moisturizing aspect, as my skin felt quite hydrated after cleansing, when it would usually tighten up and feel uncomfortable even with a gentle or hydrating cleanser. I expect no cleanser to make my skin feel completely sated after cleansing, because if they did do that then I'd probably be putting more on my face than I'm taking off. All in all solid cleanser, but I would say I prefer the Ginseng cleanser as it foams more (the tube would last longer), with an even sexier, bold ginseng scent and a lower price point while still very luxurious. The Ultimate S cleanser is for real sensorial cleansing, the kind where you feel like you're treating your skin to a cream mask with every wash. Perfect for the moisture fanatic or those that only wear sunscreen/light makeup, as this can take care of your needs with one product which makes it more worth the splurge.
The Ultimate S Enriched Water: This toner contains Ginseng Berry Elixir, likely the extract of ginseng berries, and not Ginseng Berry SR, the syringaresinol isolated from said extract. This is an important distinction to make as Ginseng Berry SR is only used in the more "heavy-hitting" products like the Infusion Treatment, Serum, Eye Cream and Cream, while Ginseng Berry Elixir is used in the "foundational" steps such as cleanser, water and emulsion. In the water and emulsion formulas, Sulwhasoo couples Ginseng Berry Elixir with their barrier-boosting 2022 innovation RE.D Flavonoid, used in The Ultimate S Cream and other Amorepacific brands from mid-range (Laneige – Perfect Renew 3X Serum) to extremely high-end (AP Beauty – Prime Reserve Retrinity Serum).
Unlike its very oil-infused predecessor, Timetreasure Invigorating Water, this water feels noticeably fresher and more hydrating rather than moisturizing. It's still got a bit of weight to it, but finishes quite silky and skin-like, not glossy/dewy. My skin just drinks it up, plumped and smooth in texture. There is something about this that reminds me more of the high-end Japanese lotions, in the sense that it looks away from that dewiness that Korean skins seem to go for and just aims to provide a rush of hydration and soothing while adopting sort of a second-skin texture. This was probably Sulwhasoo's deep-dive into the concept of "toning" because I can really feel the skin being "toned" – a bit plumper, brighter and just more "in-shape". Gotta be one of my favorite items from the line for the usage experience and how immediately noticeable the benefits are.
The Ultimate S Enriched Emulsion: Alongside the Enriched Water, this emulsion is the third drop of the collection, and it's targeted towards boosting skin resilience and tolerance while banishing redness with Ginseng Berry Elixir and RE.D Flavonoid. Compared to its predecessor, this emulsion is lighter but not significantly so, and also dries to a more skin-like finish. The formula is the tiniest bit tacky which I love, since I don't like when I put a formula on that feels like nothing but I also don't like overly heavy textures. There's different expectations for consumer perception that you can't meet entirely, but I think they did quite a good job here with finding the right balance of oil and water. I would totally use it as a simple fluid moisturizer on its own, although it is meant for use after a serum and underneath a cream. It's got reasonable weight, will not make makeup slip and just has a really comforting yet no-fuss feel to it. Under a cream, it definitely makes the skin dewier
I would recommend this for anyone who wants to try out the range but don't have the means to go for the other items. A 125ml bottle will last you quite some time and it's got antioxidants, moisture, hydration and barrier strengthening stuff which makes for a well-rounded . However it's not outstanding, I'm just putting it out there in case that's what you were expecting. It's just the cheapest entry point to this high-end line that actually can provide a tangible skincare benefit.
The Ultimate S Enriched Serum: The second drop to this collection, the Enriched Serum is also a silicone-based serum like it's predecessor, which provides an instant feeling of smoothness and moisture. However, they've really refined the texture to feel more elegant and less like it's trying to mask the true skin texture. This aspect of the serum makes it much more enjoyable, and I feel like the texture truly spreads out more easily, especially over the Enriched Water, which is always a huge plus when you're dealing with a serum of this price range. It contains Ginseng Berry SR, meant to visibly firm skin and remove aging-related waste products. Whereas other products in the range contain a host of supportive complexes and compounds including Ginseng Berry SR, the serum focuses only on a higher concentration of the star ingredient. This is meant to be a supportive/intensive care item to provide a strong boost in barrier repair and wrinkle alleviation, and who want to experience the true "essence" of the range. I would recommend this for people with more signs of aging who are already using the basic/total care items from The Ultimate S. Personally, I find the serum to be very enjoyable to use, but I could probably just get away with the water, emulsion and cream.
The Ultimate S Enriched Eye Cream: Part of the very first The Ultimate S launch. I absolutely applaud Sulwhasoo's decision to leave the texture of this cream alone after the reformulation, changing only the active ingredient and the scent. While pretty much all of the products' textures have dramatically evolved since the last iteration of Jinseol (진설)/Timetreasure, the eye cream's signature fluffy-but-dense texture is perfectly preserved, wrapping the eye area with a bandage-like thickness that is still so breathable and feels like MONEY. I have used more expensive eye creams than this one in my lifetime, ones that people would bring the guillotine out for and tbh? This one feels more cash money than a lot of them.
My eyes feel supported but not greasy, and I love that they kept Poria Cocos in the formula. If I remember correctly it was one of the main reasons why the previous two formulas worked so well, at least I think so because I kept seeing it in their eye care formulas. Something about that mushroom and the eyes. Hands down still one of the best eye creams K-Beauty has ever seen, which makes it an iconic bestseller for a very good reason. With that being said, I still think the face creams in this collection are also suitable for the eye area because they still moisturize and provide anti-aging benefits. So just go for this one if you have a really dry eye area and want super luxurious, targeted care.
The Ultimate S Enriched Cream: The very first product to launch the whole collection and the hero product, the cream is fortified with a trio of Ginseng Berry SR and two of AmorePacific's proudest in-house innovations Ginsenomics (concentrated ginseng root saponin) and RE.D Flavonoid (camellia-derived antioxidant with barrier supportive properties). It promises measurable, visible and tangible improvements in skin barrier recovery and strength, wrinkle enhancement, firmness, elasticity, pore size and overall skin texture. This was my very first impression of the line, not knowing what was in store when they completely revamped the beloved Timetreasure line and moving away from red pine as the key ingredient. My first impression of this cream was both in it's relative lightness in scent and texture compared to Timetreasure. Where Timetreasure Invigorating had a stickier, heavier texture that is more of an acquired taste, this cream glides on much more easier and leaves a sheen. Scent wise, while its predecessor (Timetreasure Invigorating) had a headier, sort of masculine scent, The Ultimate S has a much softer, elegant floral scent. This shift most likely reflects the globalization of their audience and the expectation of a more "traditional" cream most could get behind: moderately rich, pale-colored, lightly feminine and elegant scent.
The actual use of this cream has been great. I find that it makes my skin very smooth and soft, even more so than the more expensive Timetreasure Honorstige. Its formula's sheen dries to a more passable bare-skin finish on its own, or a more dewy finish over the other products. It's got a lot of hydrating mileage even for so little product, and I find that my skin is rarely ever too oily or dry to be using this cream. This is a big thing I appreciate in a moisturizer, especially anti-aging ones that tend to use richer textures as a catch-all. I need to just be able to smooth it on, day in day out, with zero deliberation. That's what makes it so great and that's why some days I cave and just use it when I should be testing other skincare. It can be as much of a luxurious and intentional pause in your day to take care of your visage, or a reliable workhorse when you gotta be out of the house in 5 minutes, and you need your skin to hold the sunscreen and makeup no questions asked. Moisturizes, protects, corrects, smooths and just keeps everything in check. Moisturizes so well your skin has no choice but to be plump and smooth, but still not too greasy that your makeup slips away. It's all I want in a moisturizer, an anchor of your routine that checks out for fast and slow days without a single doubt. Over time, I definitely see redness and pores controlled and fine lines diminished. Just generally more healthy and less reactive skin with more of a bounce. It's still not a retinol, but nothing is. All in all super worth trying if you can get it, because it's the one thing I would want to keep in my routine since I can't be buying shit like I was before the recession.
TANGENT ALERT: I still love Timetreasure Renovating (3rd gen, two generations before The Ultimate S) the most, as it is the first iteration I have ever used of this line and forever ingrained within me the experience of "Fuck, what I'm holding is real opulence". It was unapologetically herbal: rich brown color, and deep soothing pine scent that embodied a kind of luxury that guards itself. It was a complete affront to everything the Western market considered "palatable" of a facial cream. It just knew what it was and whoever had it did too. Because if you know, you'd know exactly why Sulwhasoo was so apathetic to the masses. They're just busy growing an actual cult following, before the word "cult following" was cheapened by beauty articles en masse. So just from an emotional perspective, it does seem like their more opinionated and polarizing take on a cream has succumbed to the tides of popular demand. The ingredients and packaging aesthetic signal deep links to Korean heritage still, but I can't guess if the stuff inside the jar is Sulwhasoo with my eyes closed. Because I really was able to do that with their formulas before. I hoped they would have fought harder to hold on to their "secret sauce", since they've been my all-time favorite brand for their astounding commitment to brand storytelling all the way down to the formula. It was an extremely tricky task to have literally thousands of elements within a brand to corroborate the same brand story and sustain a complete suspension of doubt. Sulwhasoo had dropped the ball lately branding wise and even with some formulas, but the launch of The Ultimate S is them succeeding in finding the intersection between growth/scale and a modicum of faithfulness to the spirit of the brand, although nowhere near as unapologetic as before.
The Ultimate S Enriched Cream – Rich: The fourth launch of the line, I think somewhere same time as the cleanser. Around this time I started to get the sense that this is a full-fledged line. Powered by Ginseng Oleosome, the rich version of the cream also contains the Ginsenomics-Ginseng Berry SR-RE.D Flavonoid trio but in an intensely nourishing, high-affinity texture. I like that they're offering two textures for their main anti-aging lines and now people can have the option to use them separately for day and night or depending on weather and skin condition. Like the eye cream, this rich cream actually reminds me so much of the previous Timetreasure creams: truly occlusive, wrapping and melting into every corner of the skin. Compared to the Timetreasure Honorstige cream's texture that feels more buttery with great "slip", this one is more dense and has more "grip", which really adds to the firming perception. Hands down the most expensive-feeling texture in the whole range next to the eye cream. Pure dermal couture.
BONUS – The Ultimate S Enriched Infusion Treatment: Personally I have not used these ampoule treatments (nor do I need to) but I have tried them on my hand so I can tell you about textures and theoretical function/claims.
The line's latest (and most expensive) launch, a series of four ampoules to be applied for one week at a time, the skin-enhancing program begins with an ampoule containing White Ginseng Enzyme meant to gently exfoliate, reveal a purified glow, enhance moisture delivery and prepare the skin for optimal absorption. The expected result after the first week is brighter, more hydrated skin. The texture is a fresh iridescent gel, reminiscent of Snowise yet finishes with a dry oil touch.
The treatment continues with the second ampoule to "activate" the skin, an oil-pearl infused formulation with Infusion Dual Capsules. As the technology name suggests, the two capsules integrated into the formula are retinol oil-gel for firmness-boosting and Ginsenomics (6000-fold concentrated ginseng saponin, Sulwhasoo's proprietary ingredient and cornerstone of the Concentrated Ginseng Rejuvenating collection). Integrated into the ampoule at a 300 nanometer size, the dual capsules are meant to hone in on firmness and elasticity, through the combination of a widely-proven ingredient and their proprietary in-house molecule, delivered in an encapsulation technology for efficacy and mildness. After the second week, the skin should expect to see a reduction in fine lines and pores, as well as feel more firmness and bounce. The texture has more heft than the first ampoule but not a lot more.
The third and most powerful ampoule of the program is a bright-red formula with the same oil-pearls as the second ampoule, housing 130,000 biomimetic microcapsules fortified with Ginseng Berry SR-Intensosome. From the naming of this technology, we can gather that it's an iteration of Ginseng Berry SR that's housed within an encapsulated delivery system to modify release and absorption (KR patent number: 10-2022-0052697). This phase of the program is where most of the changes will take place, namely a lifting effect measurable in four elements: length, width, height and time. Most impressively, the clinical statistics for this product show that 100% of participants who completed the 4-week treatment had experienced improvement in eye wrinkles, pore size and overall skin lift. This is serious considering that most brands use self-assessment to gather statistical proof of efficacy for their products (can be super vague), while this is a true clinical assessment of women with averaging around 51 years old, the intended usage demographic. The texture is quite similar to the second ampoule but maybe a bit oilier?
The last ampoule is almost cream-like: not in viscosity, but in finish and feeling. It's actually so rich that I think you could just end your routine after applying it. Ginseng Oleosome (same tech as the Ultimate S Cream – Rich) is at the heart of this last step to consolidate the skin structure for a refined skin texture and lifting enhancement. Expect a slight tautening effect by the time you're done with all four ampoules. I think they tried to communicate this "shapewear" effect through the texture that tightly meshes with the skin. It's rich and it doesn't feel like it just sits on top, but also doesn't fully sink in either. It's there, you feel it, and it's moving with you. Definitely reminds me of the rich cream because of the same emulsification/delivery technology. You really could get away with just the water and this one to be very honest.
I'm just curious about this program, please let me know if you've actually used the full program and what your thoughts are! The textures feel quite interesting to me and I think it might be more worth the money than the Timetreasure Honorstige serum due to the new technologies and varying adaptive formulas. It does seem like there's more thought in these new ampoules compared to the top line serum. The Honorstige serum honestly was really nice for my skin in 2019, but over time I realized aside from the scent and packaging it doesn't give my skin the wow-effect as the price-per-ml does, and that Sulwhasoo's top-notch line is really in need of a touch up.
So that's it, I'm really tired since I typed 5% of this review like A YEAR AGO, stumbled upon it yesterday and went ham. I hope this helps/entertains you. It's 3:20 am.
by Lonelyblep