Skin type/climate
For context, I have combo skin that is very prone to dehydration. I live in an area with hot, humid summers and cold, dry winters.
Analysis
SPF Rating: SPF 50+ PA+++
Manufacturer: n/a (OBM)
Distributor: espoir
I was unable to find any third party testing/reports to verify the UV protection ratings. In light of recent non-AB sunscreen scandals (and war flashbacks to Purito-gate), I've started looking more closely at manufacturers. Typically, when packaging only lists the distributor, it means that the distributor is also the manufacturer. Espoir is a subsidiary of Amorepacific and I would generally trust their formulations. Notably, the PA rating is lower than most AB sunscreens. For a deeper dive, please check out these excellent threads by u/SignaturePs regarding cosmetics manufacturing in Korea.
Ingredients
Water, Homosalate, Butylene Glycol, Octocrylene, Butyloctyl Salicylate, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Alcohol Denat., Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, 1,2-Hexanediol, Xylitol, Pentylene Glycol, Benzotriazolyl Dodecyl p-Cresol, Dibutyl Lauroyl Glutamide, Dibutyl Ethylhexanoyl Glutamide, Sodium Acrylates Crosspolymer-2, Ethylhexyl Methoxycrylene, C30-45 Alkyldimethylsilyl Polypropylsilsesquioxane, Caffeine, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Fragrance, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Sodium Hyaluronate, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Sodium Phytate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Carnosine
This is a chemical-only sunscreen with mostly older UV filters. I have a uvinal a plus sensitivity which precludes most sunscreens with newer, fancier, and more elegant filters. On the bright side, all the UV filters in there are FDA-approved in the US. No worries about getting this confiscated.
This products is fungal-acne safe according to skinsort. But it is NOT pet-safe as it contains xylitol. I didn't realize xylitol could be found in cosmetics until after I bought this. It went straight into the garbage (spoilers: I hated it already after trying it once so I wasn't too sad about it).
Packaging
Okay the packaging was a major reason why I wanted to try this. It's just so fun and colorful! It's an airless pump, and espoir really took "air-tight" seriously because you cannot unscrew the pump from the bottle. It's very stuck. Which makes me very sad because I wanted to repurpose it.
Testing
Texture & Finish
It dispenses a a silicone-like gel, but as soon as your start spreading it, it turns into a watery-ish consistency. You can still feel the silicone-like texture as it dries down though. It reminds me of a thinner, more watery/elegant version of supergoop's unseen sunscreen (any f's in the chat?). The finish is a bit shiny.
Fragrance
Holy cow does this smell strong. I am an enjoyer of fragrances but this one smells like cheap perfume… and it lingers! I kept faintly catching whiffs of it until I couldn't stand it anymore. Had to wash it off or I'd lose my mind (and my nose). If you're sensitive to fragrances, stay for away from it. Heck, if you don't like strong perfume, stay far away from it.
Performance
I honestly can't speak much about its performance because I used it once and removed it quickly. It wasn't drying, but not moisturizing neither. Though it was pleasantly spreadable, I could definitely still feel it sitting on my skin. Unsure how it performs under makeup, with activity, or when reapplying. It didn't sting my eyes at least despite the alcohol in it.
Other Considerations
CF/VG Status
Espoir is both cruelty-free and vegan. However, their parent company, Amorepacific, allows third party animal testing when required by law.
Price
~$20 USD for mL
Overall Impressions
WNRP. Terribly strong fragrance and not much better than your average US drugstore sunscreen. Especially avoid if you have pets.
by RadiantStarr